Seroja

Highlighting the Cuisine of the Malay Archipelago in Singapore

Seroja was a recommendation from Chef Zor at Born. When they heard about a snafu with my original plan, they suggested Seroja and volunteered to make the reservation for me. They strongly recommended the non-alcoholic wine pairing and said it was something special.

In a modern mall near Bugis, Seroja is a small 24 seater surrounding a large show kitchen. Similarly to Born, Seroja specializes in Fine French dining, but highlighting foods and techniques from the Malay peninsula instead of China. Stepping into the space, the aroma of smoke from an open fire grill at the back permeates the dining room.

Named for Lotus Flower in the Malay language, Seroja was opened in 2022 by Chef Kevin Wong. Chef Kevin’s culinary journey took him around the Malay Peninsula before learning the art of fine French dining in Carcassonne, France, working for three Michelin starred Coi in the States, before returning to Singapore and working his way up to head chef at Meta. He left Meta in 2022 to open Seroja, his love letter to the foods of the Malay peninsula. In its first year, it earned its first Michelin star, and entered Asia’s 50 best restaurant list in this year.

Similarly to Born, the restaurant surrounds an open show kitchen where Kevin oversees the staff as all the plating happens on a rectangular table in front of the patrons’ gaze.

Arriving at my counter seat, I found the first of many menu cards waiting for me. Taking the advice from Chef Zor, I went all out - the menu, the bbq chicken wing supplement and the nonalcoholic wine pairing.

I was given a menu describing the drinks in the pairing, and chef Kevin later explained how each of the drinks was designed as a integral part of the dish and made from some of the byproducts of the ingredients, making sure that everything went to good use and nothing goes to waste.

I had already had an extremely strong gin martini at the art deco Atlas next door, so it was fortunate that I was going with the nonalcoholic pairing. Nonetheless, Chef Kevin welcomed me with a welcome glass of champagne. A blend of 40% Pinot Noir and 60% Meunier, a bit fruity and citrus on the nose, good blend of acidity and minerality.

Without missing a beat, a second welcome drink to begin the meal, coconut water inoculated with sourdough starter and left to ferment overnight. Slightly alcoholic, bit of carbonation on the tongue and the sourdough starter adding a bit of doughiness to the depth of flavours.

The canapes started with a fish floss wrapped with a crispy deep fried crepe, layer of apple/mint jelly with a sphere of raita yoghurt - sweet spicy, crispy, mouth coating fat. Really satisfying mix of flavours and textures.

Next, a tuna chutoro and tamarind disc on a a crispy tart, ginger kerabu bubble, caviar, spring onion gold foil. Just slightly fishy, rich fattiness, sweetness, acid, brininess. Another big hit.

To round off the canapes, a sea conch and banana pie tee with fermented shrimp, spice. pickled daikon. I was really doubtful sea conch and banana would go well together, but I was pleasantly surprised by how well the dish came together.

First drink pairing, lemon and sea kelp - briny, woody, almost cedar-like smell, slightly thickened. Like a woody lemonade.

The first dish had so many ingredients there was a special card outlining everything in it, and its provenance . Slices of yellowtail Hamachi, topped with an assortment of vegetables, featuring lots of textures - soft, chew, crunch, and flavours - salt, sour sweet, bit of lingering pungency from mustard oil in sauce, peanut. Lots of things going on here.

Given I had already had a very strong martini from Atlas, and two welcome drinks, I was already a bit tipsy, and the next dish was a comforting warming broth made from chicken wing and chicken feet. Tons of collagen rendered out to enhance the mouth feel. Inside the soup - tangerine peel, small pieces of beef cheek and tripe, small chewy rice ball dumplings, topped with something that looked halfway between wood ear fungus and sliced black truffles.

The next drink pairing was a Rojak in glass. All the flavours of a traditional Malay salad with a spicy palm sugar dressing distilled into liquid form - papaya, pineapple, peanut, verjuice. palm sugar. A bit sour, with lots of layered flavours, and a bit of salt in the aftertaste.

Paired with the Rojak was a large chargrilled scallop on a earthy lily bud puree, sunflower seeds for texture, topped with a thick Laska sauce, served with some of the best pan bread I’ve ever had in my life. Known as a Roti Paung, this is a sweet, buttery, fluffy bread cooked in a pan, served with thinly shaved ribbons of Johorean milk butter. Absolutely amazing! I refused to let any of the bread go to waste and asked them to pack what was left from my loaf for breakfast the next day.

The supplement dish: A deboned chicken wing stuffed with glutinous rice and Rempah Udang (dry sambal, dried coconut, lemongrass and other spices) barbecued over charcoal. Sweet, with a slightly chewy skin and a lingering spice from the sambal on the aftertaste.

The third pairing drink - yellow curry, coriander and corn drink. Smelled of fresh corn husk and largely what I would imagine a corn tea would taste like.

Spanish Mackerel, with okra, prawn, razor clam slices in a rich, spicy shrimpy foam. and a herbaceous oil. Smoky, seared on top, raw underneath, charred skin adding a bit of bitter and complexity. I love okra and razor clam, so I wished there was a bit more, but really enjoyed the dish nonetheless.

Liquid “Tom Yum”, a sweet thick reduction of tomato, cucumber skin and kaffir limes with green chili, almost syrupy in consistently. I enjoyed this a lot more than I expected to. The lingering sweetness on the tongue went well with its paired dish.

A Betel nut cold noodle over picked mud crab with galangal root dressing. Herbal, little tempura bits for added texture, with a bit of spring in the noodle. Really well done.

Looks like red wine, but actually a pomegranate, mulberry and curry leaf infusion.

The main course, starting with a duck broth with kefir leaf and jasmine tea. Very sweet smelling, rich and soothing.

Next, a duck breast, pan-fried to render off the fat and finished to medium on the charcoal grill, topped with matsutake mushrooms and chopped duck leg meat. On each side was a small dollop of Malaysian sauce and a dollop of intensely spicy green chili sauce.

A few spoonfuls of rice cooked in coconut milk, turmeric oil, and crisp puffed rice for texture. Definitely could’ve used a few more spoonfuls, or maybe half a bowl of more rice!

For the pre-dessert, a glutinous fermented rice tapai, with a rose granita that harkens back to the traditional Malay Bandang drink, all topped with a scoop of herbal sorbet. Cold, refreshing, the texture of the coarse granita contrasting with the smoothness of the sorbet.

A very interesting dessert, completely made of corn. wafer, corn wafer ice cream, corn sauce. The texture of the ice cream was quite unique - almost freeze dried. Light, spongey, but also dry and crispy. Apparently, this is quite common in Malaysia, but I wasn’t able to look it up or find out how it’s prepared.

The petit fours, two kuih, both with very southeast Asian flavours - palm sugar and pandan and tangerine and jasmine tart. An amazing way to end the meal.

Similarly to Born, the chef and staff were extremely friendly, and we engaged in a wide ranging discussion of food culture - evolution of Malay cuisine into fine dining and how both Chef Kevin and Chef Zor used influences from their childhood growing up and how difficult it was to present their childhood flavours in a fine dining setting. Culinary schools teach five mother sauces and the rules of fine dining, but never traditional Asian recipes - and the precision of learning from you parents when measurements are - a pinch, a handful or “until it tastes right”.

We talked about our favourite restaurants around the world, and when I asked him for his recommendations in Singapore, he gave me yet another card with his “best of Singapore” recommendations.

Overall, another great meal in Singapore, really highlighting flavours and the cuisine all around Malaysia and Singapore. In similar style to Born and Tate Dining Room, I would put Seroja at the top of my list, then Born, then Tate Dining Room. Great meal, fun flavours, friendly staff and definitely worth returning to.

Total Damage: 550 SGD/person