Racines

A Unique Celebration of French Gastronomy in Hong Kong

Racines has been on my list for awhile, so when I found out about their 2nd year anniversary event, I took the opportunity to make a booking.

Chef Romain Dupeyre opened Racines after working across a variety of acclaimed restaurants around the world. His work brought him to Asia, working at the Lebua Hotel in Bangkok, before moving to Hong Kong, where he was the chef de cuisine at the one Michelin starred Petrus at the Island Shangri-La before opening his own restaurant, Racines, in 2022.

Racines is a tiny restaurant in a quiet area of Sheung Wan. it’s primarily a secluded pedestrian area, and often overlooked as the main roads bypass the area completely, and it’s quite difficult to drive to. If you weren’t looking for it, you’d easily miss it as you passed by.

They earned their first Michelin star in 2024, and for their 2nd anniversary, Chef Romain invited his mentor from the two Michelin starred Chef’s Table at Lebua, Chef Vincent Thierry, and their team for one night to prepare a special menu - mixing the French influences from both chefs with their experiences with Thai cuisine.

Given the nature of this event, there were many regulars, and the chef came out to speak with each table, welcome regulars, past staff, other colleagues that he’s worked with throughout the night. Both chefs called out to us throughout the night to explain the menu, and tasting inspirations, as well as any modifications we needed to meet dietary requirements. One of the friendliest chefs I’ve ever met, and it added greatly to the experience.

In a quiet part of Sheung Wan. Tiny restaurant, seating 20: 5 tables and the rest being counter seats directly against a crowded show kitchen.

We were welcomed by the chefs with a glass of champagne.

The cramped space had up to 8 people working in unison at the same time. While I’d like to say that it was a well-oiled machine, it was the first time many of the staff had worked in that kitchen, and there was some getting used to. Nonetheless, they were able to crank out a magnificent menu with the very limited space.

We were presented with the story of Racines, as well as the menu outlining the dishes for the event.

The famous Racine black-sesame sourdough was presented with two homemade Oreos with a savoury parmesan filling instead of vanilla, and a smoked butter with chili and a plum jam shaped like a leaf on top.

The amuse bouche continued with a smoked eel and potato croquette dusted with a parsley powder.

A classic Racines amuse bouche spread, modified for the night highlighting some Thai flavours, instead of classic French. On the spoon was a corn salad jelly, with peanuts and microgreens, and on its own was a lobster and mussel stock jelly topped with some creme fraiche and dill.

The first course, lightly poached freshwater oyster on top of a coarsely chopped babaganoush, topped with a cep mushroom puree, some cep mushroom slices, microgreens and crushed hazelnuts.

Next, a lightly poached foie gras from Geese from the South East of France, served with a carrot and ginger puree, and topped with a duck consommé with marigold oil. I was a bit surprised they poached the foie gras instead of a more traditional grilling treatment, but the lighter touch cooking method worked a lot better than I expected. the marigold oil added a hint of herbaceousness to the rich consommé, and the carrot and ginger a touch of heat and sweetness.

The highlight of the night for me. Some seared Normandy scallops with a Jerusalem artichoke puree, artichoke crisps in a mushroom foam, topped with freshly shaved white truffle. Absolutely buttery, rich, and delicious.

Next, we were asked to choose from a number of steak knives, each engraved with a name. We were then told the story of what significance that name had to the story of the chefs and the restaurant. I picked out the Ritz Paris, where Chef Romain served as Sous Chef for the pre-opening and opening.

The main course, the double sauced Brandt Beef - the eye of a ribeye, slow roasted medium rare then seared under extreme heat, double sauced with a tangy smoked sabayon with black olives, and a rich jus, served with a purple artichoke topped with an chopped anchovy paste.

Dessert was made by the pastry chef that worked with both Chef Romain and Chef Vincent in Bangkok. 85% dark chocolate made from beans grown in Chang Mai, prepared into multiple textures - a crispy biscuit, a slightly grainy sorbet, a light mousse and a ornate chocolate sculpture, topped with a coriander, basil and mint jelly. The herbaceousness added needed complexity to the dish.

The petit four - some milk chocolate adorned with the Racines logo, madeleines and nougat.

As we were leaving, we were handed a goody bag, with a message from the owners, as well as a nice fragrance set, and a leather coaster - which has a place of honour on my work desk as I write this.

Net net, I was really glad I was able to join them for their 2nd anniversary event, and it was an absolute joy to meet Chef Romain, see his passion for cooking and see the highlights of different aspects of his career celebrated in one night. While the menu was a one time event, I look forward to trying their normal menu. This is a must return to, and I look forward to visiting them again soon.

Total damage: $6000 HKD/2 people